Christian Core

Christian Core
	Christian Core on Gioia (8C+), Varazze
Personal information
Nationality	Italian
Born	5 October 1974 (age 50); Savona, Italy
Occupation	Professional rock climber
Height	177 cm (5 ft 10 in)
Weight	61 kg (134 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber	Competition climbing; Bouldering; Sport climbing;
Highest grade	Redpoint: 8c (5.14b); On-sight: 8a (5.13b); Bouldering: 8C+ (V16);
Known for	first-ever person to climb an 8C+ (V16) boulder
First ascents	Gioia [fr] (V16, 2008);
Medal record
World Cup
World Championships
European Championships
	Updated on 31 October 2017

Christian Core (born 5 October 1974) is an Italian professional rock climber who specialises in bouldering and competition bouldering. He is known for being the first-ever person in the world to climb an 8C+ (V16) boulder, Gioia [fr], in 2008. As a competition climber, Core won the Bouldering World Cup twice in 1999 and 2002, and also won the Bouldering World Championship in 2003.

Climbing career

Competition climbing

In 1999 Core stopped competing in the Lead Climbing World Cup and started participating in the Bouldering World Cup, organized by UIAA in that year for the first time in history.^[1] He immediately won the Cup, and again in 2002.^[2] In 2003, he earned the title of World Champion in bouldering.^[3]

Bouldering

He has ascended several very hard boulders in Italy near Bobbio Pellice, Varazze, and Triora. In 2008, he climbed Gioia [fr], the first-ever boulder graded 8C+ (V16) in history, and was for 8 years, the most difficult boulder in the world. In 2011, Adam Ondra repeated the ascent and confirmed the grade,^[4] however, in 2015, Core announced that a hold broke on Gioia, which he could only partially repair, and which slightly lowered the grade.^[5]

Personal life

In 2009, he married the climber Stella Marchisio.

Rankings

Climbing World Cup^[6]

	1995	1996	1997	1998
Lead	10	11	9	17

	1999	2000	2001	2002	2003	2004	2005	2006	2007	2008	2009	2010	2011	2012
Bouldering	1	8	7	1	8	16	4	4	13	16	54	26	54	32

Climbing World Championships^[7]

	1997	1999	2001	2003	2005	2007	2009	2011
Lead	7	-	-	-	-	-	-	-
Bouldering	-	-	3	1	18	10	10	33

Climbing European Championships^[7]

	1998	2000	2002	2004	2007	2008	2010
Lead	10	-	-	-	-	-	-
Bouldering	-	-	1	-	16	10	7

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Bouldering^[7]

Season	Gold	Silver	Bronze	Total
1999	2	1		3
2000		1	1	2
2001		1		1
2002	1	1		2
2003			1	1
2004		1		1
2005		1		1
2006			1	1
2010			1	1
Total	3	6	4	13

Rock climbing

Redpointed routes

Core redpointed 8c (5.14b) and onsighted 8a (5.13b) routes.

Boulder problems

Core redpointed 8C+ (V16) and flashed 8A (V11) boulder problems.

8C+/V16:

Gioia [fr] – Varazze (ITA) – 2008 – First ascent.^[8] Adam Ondra repeated it on 6 December 2011 and confirmed the 8C+ grade.^[9] Third ascent by Nalle Hukkataival^[10]

8C/V15:

Kimera – Rifugio Barbara (Bobbio Pellice, ITA) – 2006 – First ascent^[11]

8B+/V14:

Toky – Val Ellero (ITA) – 2009 – First ascent^[12]
New Base Line – Magic Wood (CHE) – 2006^[13]
Beautiful mind – Albarracin (ESP) – 2006 – First ascent^[14]
Ajna – Varazze (ITA) – 2004 – First ascent^[15]
Toguro – Varazze (ITA) – 2003 – First ascent^[16]
Dreamtime – Cresciano (CHE) – 2003 – Fifth ascent (first ascent by Fred Nicole)^[17]
Taklimakam plus – Varazze (ITA) – 2002 – First ascent^[18]
Shadowfax – Chironico (CHE) – 2002 – Third ascent (first ascent by Dave Graham)^[19]

Film

i Core, my climbing family – 2012 – Regia di Angelo Poli – 45'^[20]^[21]

References

^ planetmountain.com, ed. (1 September 1999). "A Cristian Core e Stèphanie Bodet la Worldcup di Bouldering 1999". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
^ planetmountain.com, ed. (23 October 2002). "A Core e Perlova la World Cup Bouldering". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
^ planetmountain.com, ed. (11 July 2003). "Core e Levet campioni del mondo Boulder". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
^ "Adam Ondra, the pure Gioia interview". PlanetMountain.com. 7 December 2011. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
^ "Core gives us the Gioia 8C+ history". 8a.nu. 19 December 2020. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
^ IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
^ ^a ^b ^c IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "Core's profile and rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
^ infoboulder.com, ed. (25 February 2008). "La Gioia di Christian Core". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
^ planetmountain.com, ed. (6 December 2011). "Adam Ondra ripete Gioia 8C+ a Varazze". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
^ planetmountain.com, ed. (22 February 2014). "Nalle Hukkataival ripete Gioia a Varazze". Retrieved 23 September 2014.
^ infoboulder.com, ed. (6 September 2006). "Una Kimera per Christian Core". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
^ infoboulder.com, ed. (31 October 2009). "Christian Core apre Toky". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
^ infoboulder.com, ed. (14 December 2006). "New Base Line per Christian Core". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
^ infoboulder.com, ed. (2 March 2006). "Christian Core, 8b+ in Spagna". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
^ infoboulder.com, ed. (1 June 2004). "Christian Core risolve Ajna". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
^ infoboulder.com, ed. (10 May 2003). "'Toguro' 8b+ per Core a Varazze". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
^ infoboulder.com, ed. (14 February 2003). "Christian Core sale 'Dreamtime'". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
^ infoboulder.com, ed. (7 November 2002). "Taklimakam si allunga". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
^ infoboulder.com, ed. (19 September 2002). "Christian Core, 8b+ su Shadowfax". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
^ planetmountain.com, ed. (16 October 2012). "i Core my climbing family su Deejay TV". Retrieved 29 July 2013.
^ I Core: My Climbing Family at IMDb

Bibliografia

Andrea Gennari Daneri, Christian Core (2000). Pareti e Montagne edizioni (ed.). Train!.

External links

Stefanello, Vinicio (14 March 2003). "Christian Core e Dreamtime". PlanetMountain (in Italian). Archived from the original on 3 August 2017. Retrieved 2 December 2023.